As the year comes to a close its time to reflect on the crazy year that's been 2010. Its been a roller coaster ride thats for sure and the share fact that I am now writing this from a plush house in Honiara is testimony to the fact that I have come a long way from making the decision early in 2010 that I needed leave Sydney. The failure of relationships, a job that was constricted by overly cumbersome processes and the fact that I had simply grown tired of the Sydney lifestyle meant 2010 was going to be a year of change. I never predicted that this decision would eventually see me residing in the Solomon Islands and even now sitting here writing this I am still trying to get my head around the fact am actually here. Very few people make the choice to spend this long (2 years) in such a remote location as I live and even fewer find a suitable opportunity to do so. So I count myself very lucky just to be here and to have already experienced so many great experiences (i.e Arnovon Island trip) in such a beautiful place as the Solomon Islands.
Heading to Honiara is a bizarre way to see out 2010 after three months in Choiseul, its a culture shock coming here with its busy town centre, large market and and masses of people (compared to little old Taro). The accommodation where I am currently staying is probably what's most difficult to get my head around. A friend and myself are looking after two houses, both are quite large and surround by high barbed wire fences and having security guards who are on patrol 24/7. Its hard to know how much real safety threat lies beyond the wire and how much is an exagerated perception of potential risk. I also wonder how this sort of living impacts of type of ex-pat experience that is had in urban Honiara compared to living in the provinces and I feel pretty happy that my assignment has lead me to the provinces, away from the sheltered and often privledged life lead by many ex-pats in Honiara.
I must say though that the calibre of people that I have met in the last few days of being here is exceptional. I have met quite a number of people who have had very colourful life experiences. People that work for the world bank, people that have lived and worked in over 10 countries, people managing millions of dollars in aid budgets from European countries. Each conversation reveals more fascinating stories. I think its quite clear now that the decision to come here to the Solomon Islands was one the single smartest decisions that I have made in a long, long time.
Saturday, December 25, 2010
Sunday, October 24, 2010
Taro Island Baby
Well as of yesterday I have been in Taro for two whole weeks, Its all gone surprisingly fast and has been filled with a hell of a lot of experiences.
Its been both easier and harder than I anticipated being here. The people have been very friendly, although like with anywhere there is that initial barrier to break through. There appears to be a more reserved nature with people here than compared to New Zealanders or Aussies.
There has been a lot of curiosity as to why I have come here and the usual questions about family and if I am married. I have also been lucky in the sense that my assignment is with a truly community based organisation and because of this I have been able to make some good friends who have helped make getting established a lot easier. Gordon and Cassius are both two great local guys who have kept and eye out for my welfare and for that I am extremely grateful.
Last week Cassius called by on his way back to his home Island for the weekend, it was obvious he had a couple of drinks, but it was the sentiment that was important. As he called out from the front of the house he said he had been asked by Jimmy ( who I will be working with as part of my assignment) to come round to see how I was doing, "How are you doing by Brother, I want to make sure that you are ok", he said. With support like this you know your on pretty stable ground and over time as familiarity grows and my Pijin actually becomes reasonable, I anticipate that these connections will grow stronger.
I make pretty regular calls in at the new house that is being built close to the Laru Land Conference office, I must admit that I was pretty stoked with my application of one coat of paint in one of the rooms, after those two hours of painting I was buggered. The heat saps your energy and sometimes even the smallest tasks seem onerous. The boys here though have been working almost around he clock to get the place finished, they start early morning and work till midnight most nights of the week.
The new place will be a good change for a number of reasons, 1) Its located on a bit of a ridge so will pick up some nice breeze, and so should be a bit cooler than where I am now; 2) Its in an area that gets mobile phone reception; 3) Its closer to central Taro Island, which means closer to the daily market and shops and 4) It will be closer to the people that I will have the most to do with for the next two years.
So all round its going to be a great move.
Its been both easier and harder than I anticipated being here. The people have been very friendly, although like with anywhere there is that initial barrier to break through. There appears to be a more reserved nature with people here than compared to New Zealanders or Aussies.
There has been a lot of curiosity as to why I have come here and the usual questions about family and if I am married. I have also been lucky in the sense that my assignment is with a truly community based organisation and because of this I have been able to make some good friends who have helped make getting established a lot easier. Gordon and Cassius are both two great local guys who have kept and eye out for my welfare and for that I am extremely grateful.
Last week Cassius called by on his way back to his home Island for the weekend, it was obvious he had a couple of drinks, but it was the sentiment that was important. As he called out from the front of the house he said he had been asked by Jimmy ( who I will be working with as part of my assignment) to come round to see how I was doing, "How are you doing by Brother, I want to make sure that you are ok", he said. With support like this you know your on pretty stable ground and over time as familiarity grows and my Pijin actually becomes reasonable, I anticipate that these connections will grow stronger.
I make pretty regular calls in at the new house that is being built close to the Laru Land Conference office, I must admit that I was pretty stoked with my application of one coat of paint in one of the rooms, after those two hours of painting I was buggered. The heat saps your energy and sometimes even the smallest tasks seem onerous. The boys here though have been working almost around he clock to get the place finished, they start early morning and work till midnight most nights of the week.
The new place will be a good change for a number of reasons, 1) Its located on a bit of a ridge so will pick up some nice breeze, and so should be a bit cooler than where I am now; 2) Its in an area that gets mobile phone reception; 3) Its closer to central Taro Island, which means closer to the daily market and shops and 4) It will be closer to the people that I will have the most to do with for the next two years.
So all round its going to be a great move.
Friday, October 8, 2010
Fish On
Well its been a very busy few days, after arriving in Honiara and getting sorted with a new bank account, pijin lessons and mobile phone, it wasn't before we were back on the plane heading to Nusa Hope for a couple days of staying in the village of Steve's wifes family. The stay was an adventure in itself, both in accessing the the village and the experiences we had while there. We flew initially from Honiara to Munda and then it was about a 50 minute banana boat ride to the village. Close to the village, the dark cloud started to roll in and before long it was raining hard, raining hard enough that the rain stung, getting wet while charging along in the boat has been one of the few times that I have actually been cold while in the Solomons
The following day Steve was keen to get out and check out the marine life, I tagged along as this was too good an opportunity to pass up. We drove the boat out to a headland were the shallow reef dropped off too some very deep water where apparently all the big pelagic fish congregate. Steve and Maka both jumped in, I soon followed and after a while I began to relax and appreciate more and more the surroundings; below on my left was shallow reef full of coral and small colorful reef fish, too my right was deep water which looked seriously deep as I couldn't see any indication of where the bottom may have been. Occasionally a small white tipped shark would swim along the edge of the drop off.
Steve suggested I have a shot with his spear gun, "no worries Steve" trying to make it look second nature, like I grew up spear fishing. I took a shot at a nice blue fish on the shallow reef, fired, nothing happened the fish was still kicking around alive and well, "Good shot you just needed to be about four metres closer" was Steves response. Well I tried and as I didin't accidentally shoot anyone who was in the water I considered it a success.
I had a go of Maka's more 'tradational' spear which was essentially a metal spear, wooden shaft and bit of rubber. The main difference in the technology here was that the spear wasn't tethered so once you shot it you had to go after and retrieve the spear (note to self, shoot as shallow as possible). I took aim at another colorful reef fish and fired and again I missed. Maka being the good natured guy he was, was good enough to go after the spear now laying on the reef.
I now felt like a seasoned spear fisherman and at the end of that morning I felt incredibly lucky to have been given the opportunity to experience such a beautiful environment. To be swimming around in the bluest waters, full of coral and a wide array of tropical fish, surrounded by hillsides covered in lush rainforest, made me think (and not for the first time) how the f**k did I get here again.
The following day Steve was keen to get out and check out the marine life, I tagged along as this was too good an opportunity to pass up. We drove the boat out to a headland were the shallow reef dropped off too some very deep water where apparently all the big pelagic fish congregate. Steve and Maka both jumped in, I soon followed and after a while I began to relax and appreciate more and more the surroundings; below on my left was shallow reef full of coral and small colorful reef fish, too my right was deep water which looked seriously deep as I couldn't see any indication of where the bottom may have been. Occasionally a small white tipped shark would swim along the edge of the drop off.
Steve suggested I have a shot with his spear gun, "no worries Steve" trying to make it look second nature, like I grew up spear fishing. I took a shot at a nice blue fish on the shallow reef, fired, nothing happened the fish was still kicking around alive and well, "Good shot you just needed to be about four metres closer" was Steves response. Well I tried and as I didin't accidentally shoot anyone who was in the water I considered it a success.
I had a go of Maka's more 'tradational' spear which was essentially a metal spear, wooden shaft and bit of rubber. The main difference in the technology here was that the spear wasn't tethered so once you shot it you had to go after and retrieve the spear (note to self, shoot as shallow as possible). I took aim at another colorful reef fish and fired and again I missed. Maka being the good natured guy he was, was good enough to go after the spear now laying on the reef.
I now felt like a seasoned spear fisherman and at the end of that morning I felt incredibly lucky to have been given the opportunity to experience such a beautiful environment. To be swimming around in the bluest waters, full of coral and a wide array of tropical fish, surrounded by hillsides covered in lush rainforest, made me think (and not for the first time) how the f**k did I get here again.
Friday, September 17, 2010
The Big Move
Well I have finally come to the conclusion that to adequately document the next two years of Island life on little old Taro Island, I really need a forum where any stories and ideas can be given the room they need, in the last few weeks I have come to the realisation this means a blog of some form. After reading blogs by others, I have been impressed at just how well written and honest they have been.
So in the next while I intend to document as honestly (but diplomatically) as possible portray the life and times of a volunteer worker on Taro Island in the Solomon Islands.
I anticipate that the next two years will be full of highs and lows and as much as possible I will endeavour to write about those stories here on this blog.
Until then its all about getting ready for the big journey, making sure the small things are sorted like having enough music on the ipod, making sure the new laptop is ready for action and buying those last few critical items.
So in the next while I intend to document as honestly (but diplomatically) as possible portray the life and times of a volunteer worker on Taro Island in the Solomon Islands.
I anticipate that the next two years will be full of highs and lows and as much as possible I will endeavour to write about those stories here on this blog.
Until then its all about getting ready for the big journey, making sure the small things are sorted like having enough music on the ipod, making sure the new laptop is ready for action and buying those last few critical items.
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